In 2020 Knuckles was born, a new small address in the Villeray neighborhood signed by Matthew Shefler and Vincent Lévesque Lepage. Since then, this restaurant, which offers a vegetarian and local menu, has made a name for itself – it was a finalist in the Revelation of the Year category at the last Lauriers de la gastronomie québécoise.
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At the same time, Julien Betancourt, former co-owner of Clandestino, was also looking to open a restaurant with his pal Abel Garcia and his good friend Paul Aoun and had his eye on a little eatery in Little Burgundy. Matthew Shefler knew them all from his Clandestino days. The two bands decided to join forces and thus Nolan was born.
“We really wanted to create a place for the neighborhood where the door is always open. You can have a coffee in the morning, have a sandwich at lunchtime, relax with a small glass of wine and a cocktail in the afternoon and end up having dinner with friends who come to your place,” sums up Julien Betancourt. For this reason, the place does not take reservations and is open from morning to evening, from Wednesday to Sunday.
Talented chef Vincent Lévesque Lepage’s inspirational menu this time incorporates some animal protein but maintains this philosophy of offering local produce. Prince Edward Island beef, Gaspésie halibut, East Coast seafood meet rhubarb, lovage, haskap and chamomile oil from small producers and small farms.
We also notice the inventiveness in the dishes that are eaten with the eye: salty eclairs with herb cream, bacon and horseradish; marinated oyster mushrooms then fried in tempura, with homemade mustard and spring onion emulsion; or even the place’s signature dish, the Nolan Roll, a sort of fried sticks revealing cured meats, emmental and sauerkraut dipped in a chili sauce without restraint.
The thirsty will find something to get wet here. Abel has created a cocktail menu that gives pride of place to aperitivo and other bitters. For her part, sommelier Marie-Claude Lauriault signs a wine list with beautiful finds, driven by a natural philosophy but without resorting to anything extreme.
1752 Notre-Dame Street West